What is the Difference Between Overlock and Coverstitch?

If you are involved in sewing projects, you have probably heard of overlock and cover stitch. Both are stitch types commonly used in garment construction. However, as similar as they may sound, overlock and cover stitch are quite different. In this blog post, I'll explain what each stitch is, its characteristics, and when you should use one over the other.

Let's first define what overlock stitch refers to. An overlock is a stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of fabric while enclosing the edges inside the thread. The main purposes of using an overlock stitch are:
1. To prevent fabric edges from fraying or unraveling. This helps fabrics maintain their form and last longer.
2. To seam two pieces of fabric together. Though less durable than standard seams, overlocked seams provide stretch and flexibility.

Overlock machines use 2 to 5 threads to create a stitch that oversews fabric selvages. Most home overlock machines use 2 to 4 threads. Common overlock stitches include 3-thread overlock, 4-thread overlock, and 5-thread safety stitch. As more threads are used, the stitches produced become wider and more durable.
Overlocks are ideal for sewing stretchy fabrics like knits. The finished seams have inherent flexibility that moves with the fabric, preventing breakage. Overlock stitches are also great for crafts like blankets that require thicker, blanket-y seams.

A coverstitch creates two or three parallel rows of straight stitches to bind edges or seam allowances together. Instead of enclosing the fabric edge within the stitch like an overlock, coverstitch sews over the top, covering the raw fabric edges.

 

- Overlock interlocks fabric using looping stitches, while coverstitch uses flat, straight stitches.

- Coverstitch creates a flat seam on the right side of the project and a straight bottom cover on the underside. An overlocked seam has visible diagonal or looping stitches on both sides.

- Coverstitch machines have at least two needles and loopers working in harmony to make two to three rows of stitches simultaneously. Overlock uses one or two needles with loopers.

◆Coverstitch has some advantages over overlock stitching:
- It creates professional, finished-looking hems, ideal for visible areas like necklines and armscyes.
- Flat coverstitches are more stable and durable than overlocked seams in high-movement regions.
- Decorative cover stitch patterns can enhance the aesthetic appearance of your sewing projects.

So in summary, overlock prevents fraying and joins fabric together with flexible seams. Coverstitch binds edges neatly while reinforcing seams with straight, professional-quality topstitching. Knowing your project's needs will determine which stitch type best suits your sewing goals.

If you need a sourcing solution for Overlock and Coverstitch machines, you can choose DAPSEW, The brand we work with is Juki.

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Email: evan@dapsew.com

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